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Hi there and welcome!
The only projector that checks all your boxes is the one you already found by yourself, the Lumis. Your point "cool and quiet enough to work without a hushbox..." renders pretty much every professional machine inappropriate. Secondly, your contrast requirements are also too high for professional projectors - at least in stock form. If you fancy some diy iris tuning and the like, 5000:1 native are achievable with the Christie HD6K-M or HD10K-M - but NOT stock! Good thing about the Christies, they bring the dynamic iris function which is very efficient and widely customizable.
If you really need the frame interpolation, it all comes down to a few Panasonic units (in the pro sector). Again, both Christie and Panasonic are too loud to use within the seating area without a hushbox!
Regarding frame interpolation, I also recommend you to read the full "Profi-Beamer-Thread" which Mankra has linked. I gave some advice there about a PC-based frame interpolation which works very good, even together with MadVR. So you can at least remove this requirement from your list.
May I ask what our plans are? How come you have such special requirements (3-Chip DLPs are (unfortunately) not exactly very common in the home theater scene)? Have you already owned one? You may want to introduce yourself and your project here, then you will receive more feedback and support from the community.
Best regards, Martin
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One more recommendation would be the Barco RLM W Series. W8 for example, or even W12. These are not too loud (in professional scales) and rather cost-efficient. The Gamut is not the largest, but can be increased decently beyond Rec.709 by means of a didymium filter. Contrast would also have to be improved by adding one or two irises. Dynamic contrast and frame interpolation is not available.
But the basis is good to improve upon - in the end it's all about the question "which model can you find second hand and how much are you willing to spend on it". This is usually a tad more difficult than walking into a pro shop with 100 grand and picking the rig of your choice - believe me, I know what I'm talking about 
Thanks very much. Good idea to introduce myself. You can call me Art. My project is a bit complicated as far as projection... just a little bit... I actually need to make post about some of the most complicated aspects having to do with 3D, which it might be a big help if you guys took a lot at it since you seem to know what you are talking about. Actually I am impressed coming from a very popular english HT forum to see great answers on the best models that come closest to meeting my criteria right away, instead of going in circles for dozens of pages of arguments and questions "that's stupid why do you want that" while no one knows the answers. 
So I really appreciate the knowledge here, which is why I joined after reading the threads and seeing it, but let me get to describing my project.
I will be sitting 15 feet from a 130 inch 2.35:1 screen for 2D. I want one bright, high quality 3 chip DLP projector for 2D HDR. I would prefer 4K of course but I dont have $100,000 to spend on a projector so it will probably be 1080p combining with madvr, although I do have a curiosity what more informed people think pf projectors like, for instance, the BenQ HT9060/x12000H, and if, despite very poor contrast, it can still perform as good or better than, for instance, a Lumis overall, simply because it has DLP sharpness combined with four times as many pixels on screen. Maybe clarity can outweigh everything else? Or is it wrong to assume it would have more clarity than a Lumis even despite 4x as many pixels?
It sounds like there are at least some things to look into. But why 3 chip DLP? It hasnt really been a problem, but I have seen rare rainbows on 1 DLP projectors with RGB LED lightsource, specifically the Sim2 M-150. So for peace of mind, 3 chip DLP would be better for that reason. I am also very sensitive to motion blur. I compared the M-150 to a Lumis and noticed zero difference in the motion, but for peace of mind, I know 3 chip DLP cant mess it up, whereas sequential color, maybe it could even if I am not noticing? Or maybe it will for content I havent tested yet? Probably not but 3 chip DLP is to me a "sure thing."
And except for color wheel models, which I want to avoid, and the BenQ HT9060 (which has low contrast and I think cannot output 24fps sources at 24fps), 3 chip DLP are the only bright DLP projectors I can find.
Then for 3D, I want to double-stack projectors for passive 3D. Why? I have sensitive eyes and 3D is sort of all or nothing. Either it works for you and doesnt bother you, and you can enjoy it immensely, or it doesn't and you can't enjoy it at all or even watch it. So I want to build the best 3D setup I can afford and give myself the best chance to be able to enjoy it.
3D stacking is the big reason why I care about frame interpolation. I have no way to know if it's true or not until I do it, but I have seen people say that the artifacts from frame interpolation are less visible in 3D, but meanwhile the benefits are a bigger deal, and that frame interpolation really enhances 3D much more than 2D. I already have two Sim2 M-150's for stacking, which should be bright enough on close to a 3 gain screen (at least, with linear polarization filters and glasses), however I am worried about hotspotting. I've seen people say it is less visible in 3D, but I dont want to take that chance given the cost of the screens I am looking at.
Can it work? Yes. With a 2 gain screen, with polarization, I can get 15 foot lamberts after 3D filters and glasses. However, I dont know if that is actually the ideal brightness for 3D, or just the standard at a time when most theaters were not capable of achieving higher brightness than that. Additionally, I am sensitive to eye strain, and linear polarization has more crosstalk than color bandpass filters. I have the equipment necessary to do 3D luts for both projectors in a stack, so I would like to use color bandpass filters. A privilege of being in the U.S., I was able to find the M-150's at good prices, and believe I can unload them without much hassle or losing any money. If I could find 3 chip DLP projectors with frame interpolation, or at least brighter 1DLP projectors with fast sequential color like the M-150's, it should work a lot better and allow me to use color bandpass filters with less crosstalk, and a lower gain screen with less hotspotting and sheen. And if I already see rainbows sometimes, albeit very rarely, in 2D, I wonder if it could be a problem, or cause extra eye strain, to have stereoscopic sequential color. With a double stack of 3 chip projectors, there is peace of mind on that issue also.
I was also told DLP projectors would work the best with color bandpass compared to lcos and LCD at the time I bought the M-150's, but did not know that did not apply to DLP projectors with LED lightsource. It might still work but it will require an even higher gain screen.
Maybe the sheen wont be noticeable from 15 feet away and through 3D glasses, so if I could find a 5 to 10 gain curved screen that will not cause homogeneity issues with a projector stack, maybe I can go forward with the M-150's in a stack.
There are many elements involved which makes it very complicated on the surface. On the other hand, it is definitely something that can be figured out, but only once you have all the information, like how bright, after the 3D filters and glasses, is the ideal brightness for 3D? What number do I want to hit for the best experience? As well as, from 15 feet away on a 135" (diagonal) 16:9 screen, how much gain before there will be hotspotting? For reference the gain screens I found so far around 3 gain have a 40 degree half gain angle. Throw distance will be 17.5 feet from lens to screen. There is also a possible "prism" solution but I will make a dedicated topic for this.
